What’s the difference between a made-to-measure, tailor- made or bespoke suit? There is a big difference, and it is important to inform and educate customers. People are out there advertising bespoke suits, however are just processing orders through a factory (predominantly in China) that makes alterations after the suit is made. That’s not bespoke. Bespoke is a sacred term that was founded in the tailoring industry and has been used for centuries. It is used to describe something that is custom made for someone’s unique specifications and requirements, hand made to the highest level of quality in all aspects. For a bespoke suit, you are looking at two to three months for it to be crafted by specialised artisans, and maybe more depending on the unique characteristics of the person and their requirements. There are only two businesses in New South Wales that offer that service, for a hefty price tag. We do offer a semi bespoke shirting and suiting service, but we specialise in made-to-measure. We take measurements and use in-house pattern blocks that we have created and we make the garment according to the measurements we take from each person. We have a small team here in Parramatta, and we also work with tailors in Hong Kong and Italy. In a bygone era, full bespoke tailoring was just the way suits were made. As technology advanced and consumerism evolved, bespoke tailoring is now a very niche offering for people seeking only the very best, without concern for the cost. In this area of the market it has seen a huge resurgence globally in recent years. Themainstreammarket,however,hasbeentakenoverbyawidespectrum of made-to-measure offerings, which borrow elements of bespoke and apply them in a streamlined method of production for custom-made suits to be made at a more affordable price. Do you feel like you are a flag bearer for traditional tailors? I am getting there. When I started, I was mainly focused on style and design only, however to be called a tailor, you have to have many years under your belt making and constructing garments. You see some people drop out of a law degree, speak to a couple of tailors, then start doing some suits off the rack with a few adjustments, and then they start calling themselves a tailor. That is an insult to people who have built an industry and have spent years and years on their craft. There are guys who are 50-60 years old who have been making suits since they were 15 by cutting patterns and using a sewing needle and thread to sew them together. I want to hold that flag. I hope in years to come that I will master the trade. You have developed a signature suit. Can you tell me about it? It is a luxury garment that is semi made in Italy by hand, after being designed by myself. It is labelled as Signature John-pierre. We have teamed up with a little workroom in Italy that is a joint venture between a few makers. The craftsmanship of the Italian workers is second to none – the cut and finish there is a different level. THE SUIT-FITTING PROCESS The process of creating a suit should be fun, comfortable and relaxed. It should be effortlessly cool. It can be a little daunting for someone to consider making a suit from scratch, though. It is like getting a brand new car – it is hard to envision the finished product when you are talking colour and optional extras. I take that pressure on myself. I make an effort to find the right cloth and the right fabric and finishes in order to make the client’s life easier. We start with the cloth, and go through a process of elimination. Does the client want a relaxed, or a structured, heavy fabric? What colours and textures would they like? Then we choose the finishes. From there, I like to explain how we make the suit and the options that they have in its construction. Together, we go through the finer details and paint an image. Then I get them into the fitting room to try on some example garments. We will go through things such as whether it will be a relaxed suit, or on the shoulders? How should it drape? How will their interpretation be seen in the fitted suit? My interpretation may be different from the client’s, so it is good to try on some garments. I explain my opinion of how it should look, and get their feedback. We create something together. Then I get their measurements and proportioning. It does take time, probably an hour and a half. It is not something you can rush. When it comes to bridal parties, guys can come together, catch up over a drink and talk suits in a relaxed environment. The finished product is a suit that is unique, and specialised for you; something that is a keepsake that will last for years. Every gentleman needs a tailor made suit. John-pierre Georges MERCEDES-BENZ PARRAMATTA 30 PEOPLE