The Jerónimos Monastery (Portuguese: Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) and the Belém Tower are two of the best remaining examples of the Manueline architecturethatwaspopularinLisbonbefore the earthquake, and they are within walking distance of each other on the banks of the Tagus to the west of the baixa. The monastery is breathtaking, stretching off into the distance for hundreds of metres of gothic architecture that features both Arabic and European influences. While you are in Belém seeing the tower and the monastery, make sure to get a Pastel de nata from the birthplace of the world-famous egg tarts, which were invented by monks at the monastery who sold the ‘original’ recipe to the owners of Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém in Santa Maria de Belém. If you make your way down to Belém area with a free walking tour, like I did (your hotel or hostel will have details), you will be able to skip the long lines of tourists who are always waiting to try the Portuguese delicacy at its historic home. Just lounge in the nearby park until the tour guide brings you the delicious treats. You can find many examples of Pastel de nata in Portugal, but these are the original, and the best. It is nearby, by the river in Belém, that you can see some of the heroic concrete monuments established by the country’s long-time autocratic ruler, António de Oliveira Salazar, including the mark of respect to the country’s formidable contribution to the modern world – the age of exploration. Portuguese shipbuilders and navigators made incredible advancements in their crafts and the country’s sailors pushed the limits of what was possible on the ocean. Lisbon itself was one of the centres of global commerce for a period, as the country led the European Age of Discovery. If you ever get a chance to see Sagres, which is perched on a clifftop overlooking the Atlantic ocean at the very southwestern tip of Portugal and looks as if it is sitting on the edge of the world,youcanunderstandwhyPortuguesesailors developed the wanderlust. Our guide explains how the country’s explorers were the first Europeans to arrive in both Brazil and Japan – he claims that the Japanese word for “thankyou”,“arigato”,isinspiredbythePortuguese “obrigado”.I’mdubious,andlaterresearchconfirms this to be a myth. The Portuguese did influence the Japanese language (notably “tempura”), but not this word. Regardless of his factual accuracy, our guide did well, and it was good fun to walk with a group of other tourists. ThereissomuchtoseeinBelém,butonlysomuch time. Bairro Alto can’t be missed, and the best way to get up there is on one of Lisbon’s iconic yellow funiculars. There are three heritage-listed hill climbers that transport people up downtown’s western slope. The Glória Funicular is located at Restauradores Square and takes passengers direct to Bairro Alto’s Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which has spectacular views overlooking the city towards the Moorish Castle. Alternatively, if you walk up the sweeping stairs up to Bairro Alto from behind the Rossio Railway Station you will walk past several restaurants where you can eat overlooking the city. BairroAltosurvivedthe1755earthquakerelatively unscathed, but it was nevertheless caught up in the Pombaline renovation. There are still homes remaining from the 16th and 17th centuries, though, when the suburb was first developed. Today, its thriving nightclub and bar scene makes it a haven for the city’s youth. During the day, visit the shops, drink at cafés in quaint squares, and at night, see the place turn into a big street party. It’s a great place to listen to the traditional Portuguese music style of fado. Don’t arrive before midnight, though. TO THE WEST OF RUA AUGUSTA: BELÉM AND BAIRRO ALTO DESTINATION 15