TO THE EAST OF RUA AUGUSTA: ALFAMA AND SÃO JORGE CASTLE Wander to the eastern side of the Rua Augusta and enter the Moorish side of town, which is dominated by the São Jorge Castle. Alfama has a strong Moorish influence and there are more hills to walk up and down than on the Bairro Alto side. Its labyrinth streets are a great place to get lost – you will find an array of artisanal stores and cafés. I saw a bohemian barber and had an impromptu haircut, and got my change out of a register that must have been 100 years old. The National Pantheon of Santa Engrácia is in Alfama, where you can take a lift to the rooftop dome that offers panoramic views of the city. Also in the area is the imposing Se Cathedral (Portuguese: Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa or Sé de Lisboa) – the oldest church in Lisbon (erected in 1147). I walked into the Church as a local choir performed some haunting hymns and it was breathtaking. As a Roman Catholic Church built by Crusaders, the Se Cathedral stands in contrast to the nearby castle, built by the Moors and which the Christian soldiers breached to take the city. It is best visiting the castle in the afternoon on sunset, when the red roofs of the downtown buildings glow orange and the Tagus river turns to fire. It is an awe- inspiring sight to view the city from this perspective. The castle can be explored, or you can sit at one of the cafés along the castle wall, sip wine and admire the view. For an iconic yellow tram journey, take number 28 from Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique on a winding tour the streets of Alfama, Baixa, Graça and Estrala. Warning: this tram will likely be crowded and you will have to wait in line. But if you are keen to get a ride through some of the most scenic areas of Lisbon without the calf-burning hill climbs, it is worth the wait. You’ll find the first stop at the southeastern corner of the Martim Moniz Square. Also, be prepared to find your way back downtown at the end of the ride – you will either need to take another tram, or a bus. Alfama has some great street art. While you walk through Lisbon, keep your eye out for artworks by Vhils (Alexandre Manuel Dias Farto). They are scattered throughout the city. I found one on a building down by the port where the cruise liners are parked. He makes spectacular street art through paint and texture: he carves out the paint and render on the sides of buildings to reveal the underlying brickwork, creating an image in the changing tones of the materials, plus a bit of paint. MERCEDES-BENZ PARRAMATTA 16 DESTINATION