DESTINATION The ends of the ear th URBANDRIVER 19 I SWAM WITH HUMPBACK WHALES IN TONGA IN THE WINTER. I hiked on the snowy peaks of Switzerland in the summer. In Tonga, I listened to the magical song of male whales. In Switzerland, I listened to a concert of alphorn players rehearsing at the 2,926m Eggishorn lookout. Mass tourism has increased the appeal of special experiences in special places. So, I was delighted to discover special experiences in special places where local knowledge was the key to unlocking treasured travel. Let’s start with my visit to Tonga, where Unparalleled Journeys, of Christchurch, which specialises in bespoke luxury travel in the South Pacific, had organised a trip for Stanford University Travel Study (although you don’t have to be an alum of this California Ivy League university to travel with them). And what an unparalleled experience it turned out to be. Tonga is a 5 ½-hour flight from Sydney or a three-hour flight north of Auckland. Either way, from the moment you land at ‘small is beautiful’ Fua’amotu International Airport, it’s a fascinating, friendly world. I arrived at the Scenic Hotel and met its pet pig, George, on a Saturday, a couple of days before the rest of the group. Everything in Tonga shuts down on Sunday because everybody goes to church. South Seas Islanders often make beautiful music, so I found a church – the Nuku’alofa Assembly of God – which was recommended for both the English and the Tongan singing during the service. The only non-local in the church, I was welcomed and enjoyed the spirited, spiritual and harmonious congregation chorus. Tonga is the last remaining monarchy in the South Pacific. Our Stanford group was honoured by having Her Royal Highness Princess Salote Mafile’o Piloluvu Tuita and her husband attend our welcoming dinner. She’s the sister of King Tupou VI. The couple dined on a slightly raised dais, attended by the princess’s lady in waiting all under the watchful eye of her security officer. After dinner she engaged in a lively and informal conversation with us. It demonstrated the interesting mix of formality and informality: for example, Tonga’s phone book lists the royal family’s four residences’ phone numbers. Next morning we took the short flight to Neiafu on Vava’u, one of the northern Tongan islands. Haniteli Fa’anunu, the former director of agriculture and food, welcomed us to his nine- hectare ‘Ene’io Botanical Garden at ‘Ene’io Beach, where we learned about both common and endangered plant species – and how not to stand under a coconut palm when it’s laden with coconuts. After lunch we visited a local primary school where the children had gathered in traditional costume to welcome us with song and dance. Proud mothers and other relatives tucked banknotes into the dancers’ costumes.